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http://surfandthefury.blogspot.com/ - The surf blog with the alternating Faulkner-inspired titles.
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Yeah, I know I'm a 46 year old with a prosthetic knee. I still want a half pipe. I think I posted this same picture a few years ago when I listed the things I wanted—but knew I wouldn't get—for Christmas. I've decided that I shouldn't deny myself without at least making the effort to get one. ...
Surf
Hawaii
That was a Santa Cruz stick. That I remember well. I was probably wearing Converse because I couldn't get Vans up there. Other than the straightened hair and the big eighties glasses, I look pretty much the same now as I did then.
Surf
Santa Cruz
Vans
As much as I want to complain about this knee, I must say that this was the best $80,000 that my insurance company could have spent on me. I'm completely in love with this joint. And this is not to say that I'm to the point where I don't know it's there. Oh, I know it alright. There's still just ...
Surf
Who knew that another blogger would end up being my go to shaper (for traditional, non-hull surfboards)? When I want a specific board, I go to him first. Worker by day, shaper/sander/glasser by night, Alan M is multi-talented. He is the maker of the JB PNR (James Brown performance noserider), ...
Surf
What's significant about this picture? Nothing really. Okay, yeah, I'm going left yet again. But here's the rub: I'm going left at a break where everyone goes right . . . even when a left rolls through. I've even had someone tell me I couldn't go left there. Whatever. I called it again today. ...
Surf
What's right with this picture? I'll give you a hint. Do you see any other surfers? No, you don't. SCORE!!!! I called it big time today. Every so often, if I let my brain think about nothing other than tides, swell direction and the like, I can figure out when a place will start breaking. ...
Surf
that when Jesus went to walk on it, he said "You call this an ocean?" before walking away in disgust. What? Not funny. Well neither is the lack of anything to ride!
Surf
The first time I met Pranaglider —now that I think of it, it was the only time we've met—I was in the OC meeting up with some other bloggers for a session. At that time, I'd still yet to see anyone on a mat before. So when he walked up to us holding a mat and fins, I swear I lost my mind on ...
Surf
My dad, who is no longer living, was in the Army during World War II. It wasn't until I was grown that he even spoke about his experiences in this country's segregated armed forces. I can't say that he said anything positive. He nonetheless served his country when called upon to do so. I ...
Surf
I'm that much of a lady. It's true. Right. You're wondering what the hell I'm talking about. Believe it or not, I'm still talking about surfing. Today's session was at a break that's new to me, a break I've wanted to surf for years but couldn't because I didn't quite know where it was. To make a ...
Surf
Soul Brother #1 hates when I look at stuff like this. When this episode aired, I was 10. He was 19. So he could have been one of the brothers we're looking at. I was still a little heavy-set kid with gigantic pigtails, buck teeth and glasses. He was in college. What a difference a few ...
Surf
I said I would paddle out today in spite of all of that would normally prompt me to turn around and go home. As usual, I went home satisfied. There were waves. Small waves, yes. Makes no matter to me in the long run. One can only stay dry for so long. Then you paddle out because you must. The ...
Surf
It probably equals a region of unhappy surfers. The last time I surfed was Saturday . . . in costume. That's not exactly a bona fide surf session. I've been to the beach every morning for three straight days. Each day I've gone home dry. Dry, I tell you!! I've made a decision. Tomorrow, I'm ...
Surf
Yes, the pink fuzzy slippers stayed on throughout the heat. I even swam in with them on. I've said it before. I'll say it again. It takes mad skills to surf in that kind of footwear. Do I at least get points for that? This contest was something else. Your surf skills mattered little. It was ...
